Hiking near Kathmandu: ten day hikes, the bus and the fee

Shivapuri peak, Jamacho and the Sundarijal–Chisapani trail are inside Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park. Its own fee page and the Nepal Tourism Board agree: Rs 100 a day for a Nepali, Rs 600 for a SAARC national, Indians included, and Rs 1,000 for any other foreigner, per entry; children under 10 are free. The Rs 56.50, Rs 339 and Rs 565 still on many pages are the old fees with VAT.

The park's fee page also says a nature guide is compulsory for SAARC and other foreign visitors. That is the park's own rule, not the 2023 trekking-guide rule, and it is enforced more at Panimuhan than at Sundarijal. Blogs put a guide at Rs 1,000–3,000 depending on how far you go.

• Fill in the form at the gate, listing the food you carry.
• No meat, alcohol, cigarettes, lighters, speakers or guitars.
• Enter and leave by the park's routes, keep your ticket, and be out before sunset.
• A car, jeep or taxi into the park pays Rs 350 a day; a motorbike Rs 150.

From Chandragiri Hills' own fare page, taxes included. Children under 3 feet ride free and those under 4 feet at 40% off; people over 80 ride free and over 60 at 25% off, as do students with ID. It runs from 8 am to 6 pm, closed 12–1 pm except on Saturdays and holidays, and to 8 pm on Saturdays.

The cheapest way is to walk up from Thankot, 2–4 hours, and ride down one way. The bottom station was burnt during the protests of 9 September 2025 and reopened about two months later.

• Fares: since 11 April 2026 a valley bus costs Rs 24 up to 5 km, Rs 33 to 10 km, Rs 39 to 15 km, Rs 44 to 20 km and Rs 50 beyond. Electric buses still charge the 2022 fares, Rs 20 to Rs 38. Passengers report being charged more than the table.
• Sajha Yatayat runs to five trailheads: Budhanilkantha (routes 2 and 6), Balaju (6), Godawari (3), Lamatar (4) and Thankot (5 and 6).
• Sundarijal and Dakshinkali buses leave from around Ratna Park; the old Ratna Park bus park itself is gone.
• A taxi starts at Rs 58 and adds Rs 12 for every 200 m, Rs 17 at night. For Nagarkot most drivers agree a price instead.
• One trap: Sajha's "Hattiban" stop is on the Godawari road in Lalitpur, not the Hattiban near Pharping where the Champadevi trail starts.

• Shivapuri peak is the top of the valley's northern rim. From Panimuhan gate the trail climbs past Nagi Gompa and Baghdwar, the source of the Bagmati; allow a full day and be out before sunset.
• Jamacho is the top of the Nagarjun forest: three hours up from the Phulbari gate, five by the longer Ranivan route.
• Sundarijal to Chisapani is the valley's classic overnight: up past the Sundarijal reservoir into the park, a night at Chisapani's lodges, and on to Nagarkot the next day if you like.
• Champadevi rises above Pharping on the south side; no gate, no fee, about three hours up through forest.
• Chandragiri has a temple and a resort at the top, and on a clear day a long line of the Himalaya.
• Phulchowki is the valley's highest hill. Stay on the road: on 23 December 2024 thirteen people took shortcuts below the "Danger Zone" sign, about 8.5 km up, lost the trail and had to be rescued by police (Kantipur).
• Nagarkot to Changunarayan walks down from the sunrise viewpoint to one of the valley's oldest temples.
• Dhulikhel to Namobuddha ends at the monastery and stupa; a night there makes it easy.
• Lakuri Bhanjyang, above Lamatar, is the shortest: two hours up, back for lunch.
• Chandragiri to Chitlang crosses the hill to the Chitlang valley, with homestays, and down to Markhu by Kulekhani for the bus.

• Start early: the park closes at sunset and the views are clearest in the morning.
• Carry water and food; there are tea shops at Chisapani, Nagarkot, Chandragiri and Namobuddha, few on the forest trails.
• Tell someone your route and when you will be back, and keep to marked trails.
• February has the highest search interest in hiking and some of the clearest days; the monsoon brings leeches to the forest trails.